DIY face mask for techies – BPI – The destination for everything process related

DIY face mask for techies – BPI – The destination for everything process related

Blog site: Column 2 – Sandy Kemsley

I’m calling this a DIY Mask for Techies because the raw materials are something that every techie has in their drawer: a t-shirt, a couple of conference lanyards, and a paperclip. Naturally, you do not have to be a techie to make one. 🙂

I recognize that this is way, method off subject for this blog, and for me in basic, however uncommon times cause uncommon options. This is a long, Do It Yourself training post, and if you choose to enjoy it instead of read it, I’ve recorded the same info as a video. Click on any of the photos in this post to see it at complete resolution.

There’s a range of recommendations on whether or not to wear a mask if you are not exhibiting any symptoms of illness. In some countries that have actually had success in minimizing infection rates, they have a general policy of wearing a mask in public no matter symptoms, considering that providers can be asymptomatic.

I’m selecting to wear a mask when I leave home, or when I greet people who come to the door. Because it’s really challenging to purchase medical-grade masks now, I’ve chosen to make my own. I’ve likewise made a few for friends, particularly those who have to walk their pet dogs, or work in a necessary service that needs them to leave home.

I’m going to take you through the technique that I utilized, with pictures of each step, so that you can make your own. Although I utilize a sewing device here, you can stitch these by hand, or you might even utilize material glue or staples if you do not have a needle and thread, or are in a rush.

Design factors to consider

I did a lot of research prior to I began making masks, however my final design was based on these 2 referrals.

A Taiwanese medical professional posted on Facebook about how to make a three-layer fabric mask, with two layers of fabric and a within pocket where you can place a filter layer. This is the basic premise of my style.

Second, there was a research study published that compared different readily-available household materials versus medical-grade masks to see what worked finest. Believe it or not, a double layer of tee shirt material works quite well.

I went through numerous models to try and make the products something that a lot of people would already have, given that it’s difficult to get out going shopping these days. Based upon the suggested products, I began with a large tee shirt from my hubby’s collection of the many that I have brought house to him from conferences. To all of you suppliers who offered me with tee shirts in the past, we thank you!

Next, I required something to make ties, since these work much better than flexible, and I didn’t have a lot of flexible on hand. Keep in mind all of those conferences I went to? Yup, I still had a great deal of the conference lanyards hanging in a closet. I offer a hack at the end of these instructions to utilize the bottom hem of the t-shirt if you do not have conference lanyards, or you can utilize other types of ties such as shoelaces.

The paperclip was added in the third-to-last style version after I went out for a walk and found that my glasses steamed up due to a gap between the mask and the sides of my nose. It’s sewn into the leading edge of the mask to produce a bendable nose clip that can be adjusted for each user.

Just a few caveats, because these are NOT medical-grade masks and I make no particular claims about their efficiency:

All in all, not ideal, but I think that using a Do It Yourself fabric mask is better than using no mask at all.

Getting going and setting up the nose clip

Let’s get begun with the standard measuring and setting up the nose clip.

Here’s the fabric pattern: it’s a 20cm by 37cm square cut from a tee shirt. Depending upon your t-shirt size, you might get 4 or 5 of these out of a single shirt.

If you are utilizing a double-knit material like a t-shirt, then you don’t need to hem the edges due to the fact that it doesn’t ravel at the edges really much. If you are utilizing a various material that will ravel, then cut somewhat bigger and hem the edges. I like to optimize the procedure so selected the t-shirt with no hemming.

Next is our basic standard-sized paperclip. I do not have a lot to say about this, expect that the first paperclip version used a larger paperclip and the wire was too stiff to easily bend while changing.

Next thing is to correct the alignment of the paperclip. Mine ended up about 10cm long, however plus or minus a centimetre isn’t going to matter.

Putting the paperclip aside for a moment, here’s how to fold the material to prepare for sewing. The 20cm length is the width of the mask from side to side on your face, and the 37cm length enables you to fold it so that the 2 ends overlap by about 1cm. In this case, I have actually overlapped by about 1.5 cm, which indicates that the total height of the mask is 17cm, or 37/2– 1.5.

I used these measurements since they fit both myself and my hubby, so most likely work for the majority of adults. If you’re making a mask for a kid, procedure throughout their face from cheekbone to cheekbone to change the 20cm measurement, then measure from the top of their nose to well under their chin, double it and include a centimeter to replace the 37cm measurement.

This next part is a bit challenging, and difficult to see in the photos.

This is where we stitch the paperclip into the top fold of the mask to develop a bendable nose clip. What you’re seeing on the right is the fold at the top of the mask with the straightened paperclip rolled right up into the fold.

To prepare for sewing, I pinned the fabric listed below the paperclip, pressing the paperclip right into the within the fold. In the image on the left, the paperclip is inside the folded product above the pins.

Now we relocate to the sewing maker, although this could be done by hand-stitching through the edge of the fabric and around the paperclip. In truth, after having actually done this a few times, I think that hand-sewing might be much easier, because the feed mechanism on a lot of house devices do not work well when you have something stiff like a paperclip inside your material.

If you’re utilizing a sewing maker, placed on the zigzag foot and set the width of the stitch to as broad as it will go, so that the 2 sides of the zigzag stitches will go on either side of the paperclip. Start sewing and guide it through so that the fabric-covered paperclip tucked into the fold remains in the centre, and the zigzag stitches go to either side of it: very first to the left on the main part of the fabric, and then to the right where there is no material however the stitch will close around it.

That might not have actually been the very best explanation, but here’s what you wind up with. The corrected paperclip is inside the fold at the top of the fabric, and the zigzag stitches go to either side of it, which totally confines the paperclip with material.

If you have fabric glue, you could absolutely try that to hold the paperclip in location instead, although I have not attempted that. You could also, as I pointed out previously, hand-sew it into location.

And here’s why we went to all that work: a bendable nose clip. This is looking from the top of the mask, so you can see that the paperclip is completely sewn into the fold of the fabric, and when you bend the paperclip, it’s going to let you mold it to fit your own nose.

Now here’s what you have, and the hard part is over. You have actually the folded material like we saw earlier, with a straightened paperclip sewn inside the leading fold. Set out your fabric like this once again for the next actions.

Adding ties and stitching sides

We’re now going to add ties and stitch the sides to develop the mask. I utilized a sewing machine, however you could do all of this with hand sewing, or you might some kind of craft adhesive such as a hot glue weapon or material glue. You could even essential it together, although if you choose for that, ensure that the smooth (top) side of the staples are facing inwards so that they do not scratch your face.

Here’s where the conference lanyards can be found in: who doesn’t have a couple of these spending time? You’ll need 2 of them, and I have actually selected two from past supplier clients of mine where I’ve likewise attended their conferences: Camunda and ABBYY. Thanks men!

Cut off all that cool things at the end of the lanyard and toss it away. Cut each lanyard in half. These will be the four ties that connect to each corner of the mask, and tie behind your head. If one set is somewhat longer than the other, utilize it at the top of the mask given that it’s a bit more around the back of your head than around your neck where the other one ties.

To get ready for stitching the edges I have actually started with the best side, and you’re taking a look at it from the rear end, that is, the side that will touch your face. Move about 1 or 1.5 cm of the tie into the fold of the fabric (that is, between the layers) on top and bottom, and pin in location. I made my own so that the logos on the ties are facing out and right-side up when the mask is on, however the choice is yours.

Put a pin where the fabric overlaps in the middle of that edge to hold it in place while sewing.

Now, it’s simply a straight shot of stitching from leading to bottom. I went back and forth over the ties a couple of times to ensure that they’re safe, then simply stitched the remainder of the way.

Once it’s stitched, if you turn it over, it will look like the image on the right. This is the exterior of the mask, now with the ties stitch in place and the whole edge stitched closed.

Now, pin the ties in location on the second edge, and pin the fabric overlap at the centre to get ready for sewing, just like you did with the first edge.

Sew that one similar to you did the other, and you know have an almost finished mask. The photo to the right reveals the side of the mask that deals with outwards, with the nose clip in the edge at the top.

Some of the fabric creates that I have actually seen online stop with an easy variation like this, but I discover it leaves big spaces at the sides, so I desired to tighten it up like what the Taiwanese medical professional did by adding tucks to his.

Adding side tucks

There are other methods to do this instead of the tucks that I’m going to reveal you. I did a number of masks using elastic, but I don’t have a lot of flexible on hand and believed that the majority of individuals would not unless they do a lot of sewing or crafts. If you have a shirring foot on your sewing device, you can definitely use that. If you don’t understand what a shirring foot is, then you most likely don’t have one. I remember a hand-shirring method that I discovered in House Economics class in junior high, but that part of my memory was overwritten when I learned my fourth programming language.

Generally, I desired to decrease the 17cm height of the mask that is needed to stretch from nose to chin down to about 10cm at the edges. I included 2 large-ish tucks/pleats, angling them a little in, and pinned them in place. This is shown from the within the mask, given that I desire the tucks to press out.

You’ll see what I imply when we turn the mask over, still simply pinned, and you can see that the 2 tucks will cause the mask to pleat it out far from your face towards the centre.

Sew across the 2 tucks to hold them in location. There’s not going to be a great deal of pressure on these, so hand-sew them if that’s easier. The image on the right reveals what it appears like on the within of the mask after stitching the tucks.

And when we turn it over, the image on the left is what it looks like from the outside after sewing.

Do the exact same on the other side, and the mask is basically done. This is the finished mask with ties at each corner, and a bendable nose clip at the top:

Filter insert

We’re not rather done. Keep in mind that open fold at the back of the mask? We’re going to insert an additional layer of filter material inside the mask, in between the 2 layers of t-shirt material.

The mask would work simply great as it is, but will work much better with an extra layer of a non-woven material inside to stop transmission of aerosolized particles. The doctor from the original design said that you could use a few layers of tissue that had been damp and after that dried, so that it combined together. I was likewise talking with a good friend about using a paper coffee filter. Utilize your imagination here, as long as it isn’t embedded with any chemicals and air can pass through it sufficiently for breathing.

I found a fantastic suggestion online, however … a piece of a Swiffer Sweeper fabric, cut to fit. It’s odorless and most likely consists of bit in the method of damaging chemicals, although I may check out a few other things here.

With the within the mask facing up, open the pocket formed by the overlapping edges of the fabric that we left across the middle of the mask. This is where the filter is going to go, and after that the fabric will surround it.

Push the filter into the opening, flattening it out so that you’re just breathing through a single layer of it. It’s going to be a bit harder than typical to breathe through the mask anyway, so you don’t desire to make it even worse.

Now the filter is all the way inside the mask. Flatten it out and press it up into the corners for best coverage. If it’s too big, take it out and cut it instead of having rolls of extra filter material inside the mask.

If you simply yank carefully at the sides of the mask, the opening closes over the filter, and you’re prepared to go. I did one model that put a breeze in the center so that the opening was held closed, but it’s not necessary and the breeze pushed up against my nose in an annoying fashion.

Changing and using

Time to lastly put the mask on. Before connecting it on the first time, put the nose clip approximately the top of your nose and mold it to fit over your nose. Once you’ve done this once, you probably just require to make small modifications, if any, when you put it on once again.

Left wing, you can see how I’ve bent the nose clip down the sides of my nose, then flattened completions of it to follow the edge of my cheek. This closes the majority of the space between the mask and my face at the top edge, which minimizes the opportunity for aerosol particles to get in, and also implies that my glasses do not mist up each time I breathe out.

Next, tie the top tie around your head. Make it nice and high so that it will not slip down. This need to be fairly snug but not annoyingly so. Adjust the nose clip, because connecting the top tie will usually pull it up a bit.

The bottom tie walks around and ties at the back of your neck, and can be fairly loose. Notice how the tucks conform to the side of my face so that the mask fits closely there. I’m thinking in the next version to add a tuck right in the middle of bottom edge to have it hug the chin more detailed, however this is quite great.

General wearing instructions

A few tips about using, then I’ll show you a final hack in case you don’t have a conference lanyard.

Here’s the final hack. If you do not have a conference lanyard, or a set of bootlaces or the drawstring from your pajamas, you can produce ties by cutting the bottom (hemmed) edge off the t-shirt and cutting it to the best length. If you cut it a little bit away from the stitching, as you can see at the bottom, it won’t even require to be hemmed.

You can also fold and stitch strips into ties, however probably you can find something already made to utilize instead.

That’s it for my DIY mask for techies, made from a t-shirt, 2 conference lanyards and a paperclip. I do not plan to start any series of DIY coronavirus materials, but if you have an interest in business procedure automation and how our world of work is changing in these altering times, inspect out a few of my other work.

Stay safe!

This content was originally published here.

Leave a Reply